3D Printng Workflow

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Export as STL

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1. Export the fins+booster for 3D printing

• Right click on the booster and fins
• Select "Export..."
• Select STL from the "Format" list
• Set Units to Millimeter
• 
• Click OK

2. Export the fuselage for 3D printing

• Right click on the fuselage
• Select "Export..."
• Select STL from the "Format" list
• Set Units to Millimeter
• 
• Click OK

3. Export the nosecone for 3D printing

• Right click on the nosecone
• Select "Export..."
• Select STL from the "Format" list
• Set Units to Millimeter
• 
• Click OK

Slice

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A slicer is software that slices 3D models (e.g., STL) into G-code instructions. It determines nozzle movements, material extrusion, and speeds. Adjusting its settings affects print time, part strength, and appearance.

Popular Slicer Software

• Ultimaker Cura »
  Download Ultimaker Cura


• PrusaSlicer »
  Download PrusaSlicer


• Slic3r »
  An open-source project that has influenced many other slicers.
  Download Slic3r


• IdeaMaker »
  Created by Raise3D, offering user-friendly presets and customization.
  Download IdeaMaker

All slicers share a similar workflow, though the interface and features may vary.

4. Select the 3D printer

• Select Add printer
• Look for a profile that matches the model of your 3D printer.
• Make sure the build volume and nozzle size are accurate.

5. Choosing the Filament

• Check the filament spool label to confirm the type.
• Common types: PLA, ABS, PETG, or TPU.

6. Upload the fins-booster.stl

7. Upload the fuselage.stl

8. Upload the nosecone.stl

9. Move the fuselage closer to the fins+booster

• Speeds up printing by reducing travel
• Minimizes stringing between parts
• Optimizes bed usage
• Allows shared supports

10. Move the nosecone closer to the fins+booster

• Retains heat in the part
• Improves inter-layer adhesion
• Reduces warping risk

11. Inspect the parts

• Ensure all parts are on the build plate
• Check that no parts overlap

12. Set the print settings

• Each 3D printer requires individual tuning.
• These are the most important settings:
• Layer Height »

  Determines how thick each layer is. Thinner layers yield smoother surfaces but take longer; thicker layers reduce print time but may show more lines.

• Print Speed »

  Controls nozzle movement speed. Faster speeds shorten print time but can reduce quality; slower speeds increase detail but take longer.

• Infill Density/Pattern »

  Sets how solid the part is inside. Higher infill strengthens parts but uses more material and time; lower infill saves both but weakens parts.

• Shell/Wall Thickness »

  Adjusts the number of perimeter lines. Thicker walls improve durability but take longer; thinner walls save time and filament.

• Support Structures »

  Temporary material for overhangs or complex shapes, improving print success but requiring removal afterward.

• Bed Adhesion (Raft/Brim/Skirt) »

  Methods to help the first layer stick. They prevent warping or detachment but add extra material and print time.

• Temperature Settings (Nozzle/Bed) »

  Proper temperatures ensure filament melts and bonds correctly, preventing warping or under-extrusion.

13. Slice the part

• Slicing is the process of converting a 3D model into layers and generating instructions (G-code) that the printer follows.

14. Preview the sliced part

• Look for overhangs, weak points, or collisions.
• Check layer lines for gaps or missing geometry.
• Ensure supports are placed correctly for complex shapes.
• Confirm the part orientation and infill settings are accurate.

15. Download the G-code

3D Printer Setup

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1. 16. Transfer G-code: Load the file generated by your slicer (via SD card, USB, or Wi-Fi) to your 3D printer.
   
   
2. 17. Bed Adhesion: Clean the build surface, level the bed, and apply any adhesive needed for proper first-layer sticking.
   
   
3. 18. Preheat: Heat the nozzle and build plate to the recommended temperatures for your filament.
   
   
4. 19. Load Filament: Ensure the filament is inserted and purged of any previous material.
   
   
5. 20. Start Print: Begin your print job and monitor the first few layers to check for proper adhesion.
   
   
6. 21. Cool & Remove: Allow the part to cool, then gently remove it from the build surface to avoid damage.
   
   
7. 22. Post-Process: Remove supports, sand, or paint as needed for a finished look or functionality.
   
   

Assemble Parts

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23. 3D print the files and gather parts

• Printing will take about 3 hours
• or use a 3rd party printing service (≈ $40)
• Acquire:
• Rocket engines. A, B, or C sizes will fit. A8-3 are a good model to start with (≈ $10)
• Kit containing: (≈ $25)
• launch pad
• controller
• Flame resistant flagging streamer (≈ $7)
• 1/16 inch paracord / nylon shock coord (≈ $9)

24. Start assembling the rocket

• Thread a flame-resistant string or shock cord through the tube inside the fuselage
  

25. Tie the string off on the bottom end with two knots to keep it from coming out

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26. Tie the other end around the bar in the nosecone

• You can use tweezers or a paperclip to get at the string when it's inside the nosecone.

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27. Push the fuselage into the lower body. It should be a very tight fit to keep it from coming loose in flight.

• Depending on your printer, you might have to sand a little bit off or put a piece of tape on the side to get the perfect fit.

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28. Tie a streamer or parachute to the string

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29. Roll the streamer and push it into the fuselage

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30. Slip the nosecone on. It should be a loose fit so that the ejection charge will pop it off.

• Depending on your printer, you might have to sand a little bit off or put a piece of tape on the side to get the perfect fit.

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31. Load an engine (A, B, or C-class)

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32. Go flying!